Comments on: Blueberry Propagation (I hope) http://www.kerrysgarden.us/2006/02/12/blueberry-propagation-i-hope/ The trials and tribulations of one Kentucky gardener... Mon, 08 Mar 2010 14:30:01 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.9.1 hourly 1 By: Nonsequitur http://www.kerrysgarden.us/2006/02/12/blueberry-propagation-i-hope/comment-page-1/#comment-97942 Nonsequitur Mon, 08 Mar 2010 14:30:01 +0000 http://www.kerrysgarden.us/?p=150#comment-97942 Most excellent guide with sound advice and great howto photos (especially good for those of us who are primarily visual learners). I shared this post with a few friends. Though, if I may make a suggestion, based on the photograph you are feeding your goldfish a bit too much :-) They need only to be fed once a day as much as they will consume in 2 minutes or less with none left over. Most excellent guide with sound advice and great howto photos (especially good for those of us who are primarily visual learners). I shared this post with a few friends. Though, if I may make a suggestion, based on the photograph you are feeding your goldfish a bit too much :-) They need only to be fed once a day as much as they will consume in 2 minutes or less with none left over.

]]> By: kerry http://www.kerrysgarden.us/2006/02/12/blueberry-propagation-i-hope/comment-page-1/#comment-97792 kerry Sun, 09 Aug 2009 18:21:06 +0000 http://www.kerrysgarden.us/?p=150#comment-97792 Ron great into, thank you. I'll have to pick up some rooting horomone next time I am over at Worm's Way. I've had great luck with the figs by letting the cuttings spend the winter in the fridge and putting them in damp soil in the shade once spring hits. Ron great into, thank you. I’ll have to pick up some rooting horomone next time I am over at Worm’s Way. I’ve had great luck with the figs by letting the cuttings spend the winter in the fridge and putting them in damp soil in the shade once spring hits.

]]> By: Ron http://www.kerrysgarden.us/2006/02/12/blueberry-propagation-i-hope/comment-page-1/#comment-97778 Ron Mon, 03 Aug 2009 18:21:47 +0000 http://www.kerrysgarden.us/?p=150#comment-97778 Blueberry varieties are not as highly bred or different from each other as apples so a (tiny) seedling would probably grow up to give fruit similar to it's parents. Also, apparently they need that genetic diversity (like plums and pears) to set fruit better. Cuttings grow up faster, and I've found with Hardy Kiwis that a 4 or 5 node section of stem that is partially hardened but with life still "flowing" through it will root easiest. Don't waste your time with the tenderest parts (unless you have a tissure culture lab set up). You should see some of that semi-hardwood type of growth on your blueberry bushes now. I'd give it a try and here's my unsolicited advice :-) - dip the end in weak hormone powder (NAA or IBA, or both). I think DipNGrow works better on dormant woody cutting. - stick it deep enough to cover one node in a moist, sterile medium like peat/perlite "soil". - make sure the soil is free draining or never waterlogged - keep them in the shade under constant high humidity with periodic ventilation - a big upside down tote with lid works good on a small scale. - the cutting tray(s) can sit on the lid and the tote lifted off everyday to mist with a simple hand pump spray bottle and then replaced. - if you see roots coming out the bottom out of a small cell pack then you've been hugely successful to this point and the hardest part is done. - after that, put them in quart or gallon of loose soil/compost in part sun and keep the soil moist. - they need to grow as much as possible (bigger root mass) the first year without over-fertilizing (so they will go dormant naturally). That will help them survive the winter better. Winter cuttings are handled different and in my experience are more difficult. The biggest problem is the tops budding out before roots form to supply them with moisture. Use cold tops and bottom heat to encourage root formation. However too much soil moisture will cause the "wood" to rot quickly. Light is not even necessary until root-then-buds form. Here is a good dormant fig technique: http://figs4fun.com/Rooting_Bag.html I wrote more than I planned but I hope that all makes sense. -Ron Blueberry varieties are not as highly bred or different from each other as apples so a (tiny) seedling would probably grow up to give fruit similar to it’s parents. Also, apparently they need that genetic diversity (like plums and pears) to set fruit better.

Cuttings grow up faster, and I’ve found with Hardy Kiwis that a 4 or 5 node section of stem that is partially hardened but with life still “flowing” through it will root easiest. Don’t waste your time with the tenderest parts (unless you have a tissure culture lab set up).

You should see some of that semi-hardwood type of growth on your blueberry bushes now. I’d give it a try and here’s my unsolicited advice :-)
- dip the end in weak hormone powder (NAA or IBA, or both). I think DipNGrow works better on dormant woody cutting.
- stick it deep enough to cover one node in a moist, sterile medium like peat/perlite “soil”.
- make sure the soil is free draining or never waterlogged
- keep them in the shade under constant high humidity with periodic ventilation
- a big upside down tote with lid works good on a small scale.
- the cutting tray(s) can sit on the lid and the tote lifted off everyday to mist with a simple hand pump spray bottle and then replaced.
- if you see roots coming out the bottom out of a small cell pack then you’ve been hugely successful to this point and the hardest part is done.
- after that, put them in quart or gallon of loose soil/compost in part sun and keep the soil moist.
- they need to grow as much as possible (bigger root mass) the first year without over-fertilizing (so they will go dormant naturally). That will help them survive the winter better.

Winter cuttings are handled different and in my experience are more difficult. The biggest problem is the tops budding out before roots form to supply them with moisture. Use cold tops and bottom heat to encourage root formation. However too much soil moisture will cause the “wood” to rot quickly. Light is not even necessary until root-then-buds form.

Here is a good dormant fig technique:
http://figs4fun.com/Rooting_Bag.html

I wrote more than I planned but I hope that all makes sense.
-Ron

]]>